Written by Luna Zhao

Although the discussion about the censorship of women and minority figures from advertisements is not new, it is still a divisive topic that speaks to broader social views on sexuality, race, and gender. Advertising, which reflects societal norms, frequently balances artistic expression with the maintenance of stereotypes.

In the past, how women and minority figures have been portrayed in advertisements has fluctuated between overtly objectifying them and portraying them in an empowering way. According to Adapt Worldwide, 25% of ads that feature women are presented in a sexualized way. This has led to a debate about whether censorship serves to protect vulnerable populations or stifles artistic expression and freedom. The challenge comes in figuring out where to draw the line.

Delving into FKA Twigs’ Case
The controversy surrounding FKA Twigs' Calvin Klein ad serves as an example of these issues at play, as well as a hot topic occupying the sectors of fashion, advertising, and, indeed, censorship, in recent months. The Calvin Klein billboard featuring musician FKA Twigs stirred more than just admiration for its artistic approach; it ignited a fiery debate on censorship, double standards, and the portrayal of women in advertising. The advertisement shows the female artist draping a shirt over her body and revealing part of her breasts and buttocks. The UK ASA initially banned it on the grounds of "objectification," but has since been partially overturned.

The organization faced backlash for deeming a Calvin Klein advertising campaign featuring FKA Twigs as objectifying, particularly in comparison to similar male-centric advertisements. FKA Twigs herself protested the ban, pointing to the high-profile Calvin Klein underwear campaign featuring actor Jeremy Allen White, which did not face similar scrutiny.

The controversy grew after a public complaint claimed the campaign sexually objectified Twigs. Following public uproar and reflection, the ASA reversed its stance, acknowledging the advertisement’s unlikely offense but still flagged it for sexualized imagery, banning it from untargeted media to protect those under 16. FKA Twigs countered the ban on Instagram, challenging the double standard, and emphasizing her belief that the image showed a "beautiful, strong woman of color" rather than a "stereotypical sex object.” This incident, further examined alongside Kendall Jenner's inclusion in the campaign, underscores the ASA's challenge in balancing artistic freedom with sensitivity in advertising regulation.

And here's the kicker: This isn't just about this specific campaign; it's about the ongoing struggle for women, especially women of color, to claim ownership over their bodies in the face of societal scrutiny. In the advertising industry, only 2% of workers are women from minority groups, showcasing a significant disparity in representation that affects how women of color (WOC) can influence their portrayal in the media. This underrepresentation extends to senior leadership roles within the media and entertainment sectors, where despite women comprising 49% of the total workforce, WOC holds a mere 4% of C-suite positions. Meanwhile, gender imbalance in advertising narratives persists, with women featured in key roles in only 39% of ads compared to men's 61%, underscoring the systemic barriers WOC faces in ascending the corporate ladder and impacting content and representation from influential positions.

When FKA Twigs stands up against what she perceives as a double standard, she's not just defending a billboard; she's challenging a societal norm that often silences and objectifies women.

Double Standards in the Limelight
The Calvin Klein controversy shines a spotlight on the double standards women face in advertising. While men are often celebrated for their physicality and confidence, women walk a thinner line, balancing between empowerment and objectification. ASA’s decision to revisit and partially reverse the ruling is a rare occurrence for the watchdog. It highlights the evolving understanding of what constitutes objectification and the importance of context in interpreting images.

The Role of Regulatory Bodies
The incident raises questions about the role of advertising regulators in navigating the ever-changing landscape of societal norms and values: Are they gatekeepers of morality, or are they judges of artistic expression? With public opinion playing a significant role in the ASA’s reconsideration, it's clear that regulatory bodies must remain adaptable, willing to engage in dialogue, and reconsider their decisions in light of new perspectives and criticisms.

Moving Forward: A Call for Constructive Conversations
The Calvin Klein advertisement controversy is more than a debate over a single image, it is a call for all of us - consumers, creators, and regulators - to engage in constructive dialogue that strikes a delicate balance between artistic freedom and social responsibility.

Let's not shy away from the uncomfortable conversations about censorship, objectification, and the double standards that pervade our media. Talk about it, tweet about it, challenge it. We should remember the importance of context, the power of voice, and the need to continually discuss, challenge, and refine our collective perspectives. After all, through these conversations, we can hope to create a more inclusive and understanding world, both within and outside the advertising industry.

Calvin Klein Ad Controversy: A Discussion on Censorship and Double Standards in Advertising